The premium categories of sake are beautiful in their simplicity. They consists only of the simple raw ingredients of rice, water, koji (rice propagated with a special mould), and sometimes a small amount of brewers alcohol added to draw out more delicate flavours and aromas. Of these ingredients, it is very often rice that assumes the role of vanguard in any marketing or promotion. However, in truth, the relationship between the rice used and the quality of the final product is significantly weaker than it is, for example, with grapes in wine production. Great sake can be, and often is for that matter, made from rice that is deemed to be "lower grade", classified as table rice, or ippan-mai in Japanese.

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In contrast to wine production, the overriding factor determining the quality of sake is actually the brewing process, and a tight, well honed process will invariably prevail against that of a poor one, even if the latter uses the finest of raw ingredients. A skilled and experienced master brewer (toji) has several other tools at his or her disposal that can be more significant in altering the course of any given batch. For example, legendary British toji Philip Harper describes the role of koji as being a "filter" that obscures the characteristics of a particular year's rice harvest. This opinion is echoed by many other professionals in the industry who place this miracle mould above anything else on the list of the most influential factors in sake brewing. Indeed, the process of converting starch to sugar as a result of enzymes from the koji is one of the fundamental differences separating wine and sake production.

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That being said, the importance of rice in sake brewing should not be underestimated, and the variety used also still plays an important role in determining the characteristics in the final product. In the case of sake, though, the influence of the rice variety is more closely linked with how much easier it is to handle during production, or perhaps more accurate to say, how less difficult some strains can be. Indeed, some have a reputation as being slightly more challenging to work with than others, with a few even being deemed downright challenging. When you consider the importance of the brewing process in making good sake, it stands to reason that using quality raw ingredients goes a long way to alleviating the many difficulties facing a team of brewers. Therefore, using rice specially cultivated for sake production is more about instilling a bit more confidence through stability when carrying out the numerous delicate processes necessary when making premium sake.  

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These special strains of rice, known as shuzokoutekimai in Japanese, typically have a lower protein content than regular table rice, and can often be identified through the presence of a prominent starchy centre known as the shinpaku. This lower protein content often leads to fewer so-called "off-flavours" in the finished sake, and the presence of a comparatively high starch content also aides numerous other processes. The ideal characteristics of a brewer's rice is one that is durable enough to sustain a high degree of polishing, has an ability to consistently absorb water when being soaked in preparation for steaming, and one that allows for excellent haze (koji mould) penetration when making koji. All of these attributes are welcomed in sake brewing, yet they are also the reason that brewer's rice is said to be unsuitable for eating. However, this last point is of course very much a subjective one.

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Generally speaking, rice is divided into two categories depending on whether it is a late or early harvesting variety. In Japanese, these are known as okutei and wasei respectively. Although it is often difficult to make accurate generalisation in sake, for the vast majority of cases, late harvesting rice can be said to be softer grained than early varieties. This in turn means that they will dissolve more readily in the main fermenting mash and go on to produce sake with a fuller-bodied, richer profile. Conversely, early harvesting rice tends to be hard grained, and are known for dissolving gradually, producing a clean, lighter style. Notable examples of both would be Omachi, famously late harvesting and very difficult to handle when brewing, and Gohyakumangoku, an early harvesting variety synonymous with Niigata prefecture and the famous light and crisp tanrei-karakuchi style. It is also worth noting that you might occasionally hear the term nakatei for rice that is harvested mid-season. 

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In summary, rice specifically intended for brewing with and regular table rice are as different from one another as grapes sold in supermarkets intended for consumption are when compared to those made for wine making. Naturally, the price difference between these two types is also considerably different, and the cost of procuring the most sought after examples is perhaps the most significant expense facing sake breweries. Although using regular rice can still produce exceptional sake, the stages of the brewing process that are said to have the greatest leverage in determining the final characteristics are made much easier when using quality rice. For this reason, the vast majority of sake submitted to the National New Sake Competition (zenkoku shinshu kanpyo-kai) each year is made with the most expensive and well known brewer's rice of them all, the infamous Yamada-nishiki.

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Although Yamada-nishiki exhibits all of the qualities of a good brewing rice as mentioned previously, it is formidably expensive, and it does not grow well in every region of Japan. Moreover, customer preferences vary, and the industry is lucky enough to boast another 100-120 or so varieties. From within these, there also exists a wide spectrum of possible subtle flavours, and sometimes even aromas, that can manifest when used to their potential. In the right hands, these subtle yet unique characteristics can add the final touch of personality to a particular sake. For this reason, savvy consumers often base their decision as to what to buy purely on which rice variety was used.

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If nothing else, the role of rice in the greater overall world of sake is one that offers a fascinating insight into the rich tapestry of regionality in Japan, and the influence this can have on sake production. In some cases, entire regions have been moulded by the varieties of rice that they produce, and certain varieties have even come to define them, transcending branding as the most important component. Because of this, anyone serious about studying the numerous different facets of sake will at some stage invariably have to dedicate some time to this subject. However, the rewards for doing so will undoubtedly be a greater appreciation of how intricate and complex the world of sake can be. Therefore, the varieties listed below are just a small sample to get you started, and comprises the top four most popular rice varieties by volume.